Bohemian Fixation: Wandering Down the Runways

Bohemian Fixation: Wandering Down the Runways

Bohemian style, or “boho,” is an enduring style representative of freedom, wanderlust, and artistic spirit. Its layered origins span cultures and centuries, drawing from the colorful textiles of Eastern Europe, the intricate embroidery of Central Asia, the flowing garments of North Africa and India, and the artisanal jewelry traditions of indigenous and nomadic communities. These elements made their way to the Western world largely through colonial trade, travel, and the aesthetic interests of avant-garde artists and intellectuals in 19th-century Paris. The term "bohemian" itself was used to describe those living outside the bounds of bourgeois respectability—painters, poets, and performers, who sought inspiration from cultures seen as freer or more spiritually rich. Over time, these influences merged with folk traditions and vintage military styles to form the eclectic, global look we now call boho.

Boho in the 1960s: The Icons

The 1960s and 1970s brought boho fashion into the spotlight through a cast of effortlessly stylish icons. Jane Birkin, with her basket bags, undone hair, and embroidered blouses, became the muse of French bohemian style. Brigitte Bardot's breezy peasant tops and tousled charm offered a sultry take on the aesthetic. Talitha Getty, famously photographed in Marrakesh in 1969, epitomized jet-set bohemia with her kaftans, layered jewelry, and exotic textures. Liza Minnelli, especially during her Studio 54 days, infused boho with a glamorous edge, often donning fringe, velvet, and statement accessories.

As Seen On The Runway: The Designers

Fashion houses have long interpreted boho style through their own lenses, each adding a unique touch.

Yves Saint Laurent (1976, 'Russian Collection') 

This collection featured folkloric embroidery, tiered skirts, fur-trimmed coats, and rich jewel tones inspired by Eastern Europe.

 

Chloé (early 2000s)

Phoebe Philo embraced romantic femininity with flowing dresses, billowy blouses, and soft tailoring—elements that echoed vintage sensibilities, but felt modern and fresh.

 

(F/W 2004)

(S/S 2003)

Anna Sui 

Sui channels boho through whimsical prints, velvet textures, lace, and heavy nods to music subcultures of the 60s and 70s.

(F/W 2024)

Etro

A brand built around bohemian opulence with paisley prints, layered fabrics, and a maximalist approach to color and texture.

(S/S 2022)
(S/S 2020)

Isabel Marant

A master of Parisian boho, Marant blends effortless cool with global textiles and silhouettes—slouchy boots, embroidered jackets, and fringed detailing are among her signatures.

(F/W 2014)
(S/S 2020)

 

Chloé FW '25: The Latest Bohemian Masterpiece

At Paris Fashion Week, Chloé’s Fall/Winter 2025 show felt like a spiritual homecoming. A brand long linked with bohemian ease and romanticism, Chloé returned to its roots while proposing a refreshed vision of boho.

Creative director Chemena Kamali, in her debut collection, drew directly from the Chloé archives and the icons who wore them. The result was a celebration of fluidity, sensuality, and individuality. Long dresses in muted florals, shearling vests, suede over-the-knee boots, and statement gold accessories walked the line between nostalgia and now. Embroidered coats, airy blouses, and languid silhouettes brought to mind Birkin and Getty—but with a new sense of intentionality and wearability.

Kamali’s boho is at once earthy and ethereal, timeless and current. It served as a reminder that bohemian fashion is at it's best when grounded in craftsmanship, intentionality, and authenticity.

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